Last week, I was thrilled to hear about the inauguration of the new Ecovia do Mondego.
This new addition connects with the renowned Dão Eco Road, which stretches 50 km between Santa Comba Dão and Viseu.
The Ecovia do Dão itself is linked to the Vouga Eco Road, which runs 90 km between Viseu and Aveiro.
Together, these paths now allow for a nearly 200 km bicycle journey through the beautiful and historic cities of Coimbra, Viseu, and Aveiro, all in complete safety.
Having cycled the Dão Eco Road and Vouga Eco Road several times, both of which offer stunning scenery, I couldn’t wait to explore this new section between Santa Comba Dão and Coimbra. Despite my limited availability this time of year, I seized the opportunity on a free day, setting off with my usual cycling companion, Francisca, for a new adventure.
The day began early with a car trip to our starting point in Santa Comba Dão. However, a car issue delayed us, and instead of starting our ride at 10:00 AM as planned, we didn’t begin until after 2:00 PM.
Arriving at the Santa Comba Dão Train Station, which serves as the connection between the Ecovia do Dão and the new Ecovia do Vouga via the IP3, was straightforward. There’s ample parking nearby, making it easy to unload and prepare the bikes. However, the signage for the Ecovias was less than ideal, and with some construction still ongoing, finding our direction towards Coimbra required a bit of intuition.
Our first stop was in the village of Vimieiro, the birthplace of Salazar, who was Portugal’s head of government from 1927 to 1969. We made a brief stop to view the exterior of his house before continuing.
The next 7 km were on a paved road shared with cars, with few points of interest, except for the surprising sight of two wild boar piglets breaking the monotony. We reached the mouth of the Dão River, where its waters merge with those of the Mondego.
Here, the scenery changed dramatically. The landscape, altered by the Aguieira Dam, is marked by a large body of water and the emergence of countless trees. The pavement turns to dirt, making the ride much more pleasant.
When we spotted the Montebelo Aguieira Hotel, we couldn’t resist stopping, especially as we were dehydrated and hungry.
The hotel, with its stunning views of the dam, expansive lawns, and fantastic swimming pool, tempted us to stay for a few days.
Unfortunately, due to the car issue that delayed us, we couldn’t afford to linger. After a quick sandwich and drink, we pressed on.
From this point onward, the scenery became truly breathtaking.
We pedaled through forests of beautiful trees, with the Mondego River providing a scenic backdrop. Unlike the other two Eco roads, which primarily feature dedicated bike paths, the Mondego Eco Road makes excellent use of riverside roads and dirt trails, adding a touch of adventure to our journey.
The 25 km stretch from the Aguieira Dam to Penacova is spectacular, with some areas requiring a bit more skill, and small river inlets perfect for swimming or picnicking.
One of the most remarkable spots is the Livraria do Mondego, a stunning geological formation resembling books stacked vertically. This natural wonder, formed 400 million years ago, was fittingly dubbed "the Oldest Library in the World" by National Geographic.
We arrived in Penacova via the river beach, a great spot for a drink and a swim. However, with time running short, we decided to head up to the top of the hill, where the town center is located, to watch the sunset from the beautiful Mirante do Emygdio and enjoy a well-deserved dinner.
